Interior :: Shifters :: Craven Speed Short Shifter R50 R52 R53. If fast shifting is what you want for your R50 R52 R53 MINI Cooper or Cooper S. MINI Cooper Short- Shift Kit Installation (R5. R5. 2/R5. 3 2. 00. This article is one in a series that have been released in conjunction with Pelican Parts' new book, How to Maintain and Modify your new MINI The book contains 2. With more than 5. MINI owner's collection. The book is due to be released in late 2. See The Official Book Website for more details. One of the most popular additions to the MINI is the installation of a short- shift kit. The kit shortens the length of throw on the shifter, theoretically giving you the ability to shift faster. Installation is a moderate task, and should take the better part of an afternoon. There are currently many popular types of short shift kits on the market. They are basically all the same - they replace the shift lever with one that has a shorter throw. MINI Cooper Forum > MINI Technical Forums > MINI Engine & Drivetrain Tuning > First Generation MINI Tuning > PROMINI (BMP) Short Shifter. Installation guide for your MINI Cooper 2007-15. Shift boots; Short shifter boots; Steering. The console can now be reinstalled in the MINI by. Shifter ZR4 Laser Jammer Installation in R56 MINI Cooper. Lamborghini Gallardo Passport 9500ci Installation. 3:38 Short Shifter Install. MINI Cooper short shift adapter is made. World's BEST Mini Cooper S Short Shifter by TWM Performance Mini Cooper S Short Shifters. The ULTIMATE Short Shifter for the Mini Cooper S. For the purpose of this project, I chose the B& M Short- Shifter, also available from Pelican. Parts. com. This kit allows you to reduce the shifter throw by 2. Keep in mind that the installation process is generally the same for any short shift kit. Also keep in mind that in our case, the kit only works on MINI Cooper and Cooper S models from 2. Begin by removing the shift knob. Pull up on the shift knob to remove it from the gear lever. It's on there pretty tight, so you may need to place a large wrench under the base of the knob and give it a whack with a hammer to release it. Use caution to prevent it from flying straight up. Next, take a small screwdriver and pry the shift boot cover up and off the center console. As you do, it will pull the shift boot inside out and you will be able to cut the zip- tie holding it in place. Cut the zip tie and pull the boot off the shift lever. Now jack the car up and place it on jack stands. Under the car, you will see the exhaust running down the center of the car. Above the exhaust are a set of heat shields that line the inside of the tunnel. The shifter housing sits right above the center tunnel heat shield. You will need to remove the 1. There is a total of 8 nuts as well as a small 8mm bolt that secures the center tunnel heat shield at the front of the car. Now remove the oxygen sensor wiring from the two clips holding it to the heat shield. You don't need to actually remove the oxygen sensor, just the loom going to it. The center exhaust pipe is supported near the rear of the center tunnel by two rubber mounts bolted to a bracket. You will need to remove this bracket. There are 6 1. 0mm bolts that secure the bracket to the car and 2 1. Remove all of these bolts and rotate the bracket downward to free the exhaust mounts. Next, remove the two 1. Exhaust bolts tend to rust and/or corrode, so you may need to soak them in penetrant oil prior to removing. Now separate the exhaust joint. There is a flexible exhaust section just in front of the catalytic converter that allows enough movement to work the joint free. It's also a good idea to support the rear section of the exhaust with a jack or jack stands. Now, remove the heat shield above the exhaust and slide it out over the exhaust as shown by the green arrow. It will take a bit of work to free the shield up. Don't be afraid to bend the shield as needed to remove it. Directly above the shield is the shifter housing. Pry the plastic cover off the bottom exposing the cables inside. Pop the cable ends off the ball joints. For the cable on the side, you can use a 1. You can grab the cable end with some channel locks and give it a good tug downward to yank it off. Once both cable ends are free, use the channel locks to pull the two cable retaining clips down and off. Now remove the 4 T4. Torx bolts holding the shifter housing to the body and lower it down and out of the car. As it lowers, slide the shift cables out of the box. Take the shifter housing and place it either in a vise or on your workbench. It's a good idea to clean the housing of any dirt. See Figure 1. 9). Remove the black rubber gasket on the top of the housing as well as the four bushings around the mounting bolts (See Figure 2. Look at the top of the shifter housing. There is a black plastic bushing that clips into the housing and secures the shift rod in place. The bushing is secured to the housing with three clips. Press these three clips in and push the bushing up to release it. This part is tricky and you may want to have a helper press the third clip while prying the bushing up (See Figure 2. Once out, you will see that the bushing surrounds the ball on the shift lever. Very carefully pry the bushing up and over the ball to free it. It may seem like the bushing can't bend that far, but the bushing is segmented to allow the arms of it to move. Take your time and be careful not to break the clip (See Figure 2. Next, you will need to withdraw the smaller ball pivot from the metal carrier on the side. Mount the shift housing in a vise and use a large screwdriver to VERY carefully pry the metal carrier in the direction of the green arrow. As you do this, work the shift lever back and forth to remove the ball pivot. This is something that sounds easier than it really is. Take your time and make sure that you don't crack the housing (See Figure 2. Take the new shift lever and slide the supplied o- ring over the bottom of the lever until it seats in the groove at the bottom (See Figure 2. Remove the two foam rings from the end of the old shift lever, clean them if needed and place them on the new shift lever (See Figure 2. Now fit the new shift lever to the shifter housing. Like before, mount the housing in a vice or secure it in some other manner and carefully pry the metal carrier enough to the side to slide the smaller blue pivot ball inside. Don't be afraid if you scrape some of the blue anodizing off the smaller pivot ball. The small plastic carrier bushing will hold it in place (See Figure 2. Clean the large plastic bushing you removed earlier. Now take the tube of Lubriplate that came with the kit and liberally apply it to the inside of the bushing. This surface with continually be riding on the ball pivot for many years (and gearshift changes) to come, so it's a good idea to apply on the heavy side (See Figure 2. Slide the bushing down the new shift lever and pop it onto the pivot ball. Make sure you line the groove in the bushing up with the arm of the smaller pivot point, and then push it all the way down until the three small clips pop into place (See Figure 2. Now take the small plastic bushing that came with the kit and apply a good coat of lubricant to the inside (See Figure 2. Place the bushing inside the metal carrier and over the small blue pivot point (See Figure 3. Lay the shifter housing on it's side and secure it so that it lays flat and not putting pressure on the shift lever. Now take a 7mm socket or a similarly sized piece of metal and hammer the bushing down onto the blue pivot. It should pop into place and be firmly seated. Take care that if it is not seated, the bushing will pop out of the housing when you try to shift gears (See Figure 3. The following steps are optional. B& M allows you to either use the stock rubber isolators to bolt the shift housing back in, or use the 4 solid bushings supplied. Using the solid bushings will give a more solid feel when shifting gears and also increase the effectiveness of the short shift kit. However it may also allow the shift lever to vibrate. If you choose to use the solid bushing, cut the rubber grommets out of the rubber gasket that fits on the top of the housing (See Figure 3. Keep the rubber grommets; you can re- use them if you aren't happy with the way the solid bushings perform. Place the rubber gasket back on top of the housing and place the solid bushings in the holes as shown (See Figure 3. Now re- mount the shifter housing back in the car. Start by feeding the shift cables through the holes on the side, (taking care that the small o- rings around the cable retainers seat properly) and push the shifter housing up, guiding the shift lever up and through the hole in the center console (See Figure 3. At this point, refit the heat shield and bolt the exhaust back together using a new gasket. Slide the shift boot over the new gear lever as shown. Use the supplied zip- tie to secure the boot at the desired location and pull the zip tie tight and trim the excess off. Now fold the boot over and line up the shift boot cover with the console. There are four pins that fit into the console. One of them will be bigger than the other three (See Figure 3. The last step is to pop the shift knob back onto the new shift lever. The knob will now sit lower than it did before (See Figure 3. Drive the car and check the now shorter gearshift throw. Figure 1. Shown here is everything included with the B& M short shifter kit for the MINI Cooper S. This includes the new shift lever, 4 solid mounting bushings with screws, and O- ring, a new pivot bushing and a zip tie for the shifter boot. Large Image . It's on there pretty tight, so you may need to place a large wrench under the base of the knob and give it a whack with a hammer to release it. Large Image . Once cut, remove the shift boot. Large Image . Remove the nuts shown here on the driver's front side (green arrows). Large Image . Exhaust bolts tend to rust and/or corrode, so you may need to soak them in penetrant oil prior to removing. Large Image . There is a flexible exhaust section just in front of the catalytic converter that allows enough movement to work the joint free. It's also a good idea to support the rear section of the exhaust with a jack or jackstands. Large Image . It will take a bit of work to free the shield up. Don't be afraid to bend the shield as needed to remove it. Large Image . Pry the plastic cover off the bottom exposing the cables inside. The green arrows show the T4. Torx bolts that secure the housing to the underside of the car. Large Image . For the cable on the side, you can use a 1.
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